whew! Back in Ghana finally! After too many hours sitting in cramped, dirty, dusty, half-broken buses we have finally arrived back in southern Ghana. Home sweet home.
I spent the better part of my Christmas break from school traveling north through Burkina Faso and up to Mali with 2 of my best friends in PC Ghana, Anthony and Kyle. I must say that we had a kick ass trip. So a few tips when traveling around Burkina and Mali the cheap way with public transport...
1. Learn how to speak french or find someone that speaks both French and English, very few of the people in burkina and Mali speak English at all...making communication a little difficult at times, but the people there didn't mind too much, they just laughed at us a lot. Esp, since none of us spoke any French...lol
2. Compared to Ghana, both countries are 2x or 3x more expensive with everything. So our money from Ghana didn't go nearly as far. I almost ran out of money.
3. Remember to bring some kind of warm clothes, it's the desert and this time of year it is cold at night. We spent some nights sleeping outside in Mali under the stars and we were cold as hell...
4. Bring a handkerchief to keep the dust out of your nose and mouth when flying over the dusty road.
5. Also, contrary to popular belief, you can purchase the visas at the border and that may take a little more time at the border crossings, but it will save you a lot of money. For example we bought the Mali visa at the border with Burkina for 15,000 CFCA (~35 USD OR 50 ghc) and it was a one month single entry visa.
Anyways, back to our travels. Like I said in my tips, none of us spoke french, but I guess that just made our trip that much more interesting. Along our trip we ran into some truly amazing people, many of the volunteers in Burkina were rad and made us feel welcome when we crashed their Christmas party and showing us around the capital of Ouagadougou and even the Country Director was extremely welcoming and helped in our Christmas celebrations. It was a party! We also met some pretty cool guys from PC Cameroon we had some fun kicking it both Burkina and Mali. They helped us so very much.
The main purpose of our trip was to go to Dogon Country in Mali. For those that do not know about Dogon Country, it is truly a unique place. One of the most popular tourist attractions in Western Africa. The Dogon people live along a giant plateau, called the Escarpment and they still maintain many of their traditions. Including their way of life, and their culture. The only way to see these people and to interact with them is by going to their villages. Many of the older tourists will opt to take a 4x4 SUV between the villages, and see the area that way. But those of us that have a little more energy and time to kill, we spend our time seeing the Dogon villages all on foot. Walking up to 14 km in a day between them. Most of the days we'd spend an hour walking in the morning (about 4-6 km) and then get a quick tour of the town and then spend the afternoon relaxing in the shade, playing cards and eating. And then in the afternoon we would walk for another hour or so (4-6 km) and take another tour of the town and sit around relaxing. So the three of us hired an english speaking guide, without a guide in Dogon country you wouldn't get very far because of the language and cultural barrier. Even though the official language in Mali is French, the people in Dogon speak Dogon and each village speaks a different dialect.
At night in the villages the roofs of the buildings are made available for us to sleep on. And with a mat and sometimes an extra sheet (if they have one, that's why I recommend bringing warm clothes and/or a blanket) and it is beautiful to stare up at the stars. That's how we rang in the new year's with a few litres of their local millet beer, Dolo and we were staring up at the stars and with a full moon over the city it was cool.
Many of the people in Dogon are Animist, meaning that they have their traditional beliefs with sacrificing of animals and fetish priests etc. Also the construction of their houses and building are very interesting to see. The people in Dogon are also master farmers, coming from America and with having so many machines doing the work for us...it is difficult to believe the amount of work these people do to make their gardens grow in the desert. Imagine watering your fields by hand...it's just incredible. In the middle of the desert one can see bright green fields of onions and cabbages being grown...
Oh yeah, so the last few tips for when traveling overland in Africa. Always bring a book. We had 4-5 different breakdowns (i don't know the number because I'm not sure if you should count a donkey cart coming untied and all of us falling off...) and sometimes you get stuck waiting. Yeah, for spending only 44 hours in public transport from Ghana to Dogon Country and back I think 4-5 breakdowns is expected. But it was kind of funny, our very first tro tro when leaving Accra broke down in gridlocked traffic only 20 minutes away from the station leaving us on the side of the road for an hour and a half. The worse one was when traveling from Tamale to Ouagadougou. Our car broke down for over 2 hours in Burkina Faso and our driver didn't speak any English and we didn't speak any french, but we still tried to push start the car for over 2 hours before we gave up and just hopped on another car passing by. lol, traveling overland can be an adventure.
And my very last tip for when traveling anywhere, carry some extra toilet paper. You never know when you'll come down with a bout of giardia. Under any circumstances giardia really sucks, and when you're traveling it sucks even more. Thanks to Kyle and Anthony for saving me, since I kind of forgot my toilet paper in Ghana. haha! anyways, I hope you've enjoyed hearing about my vacation...here are some pictures for you now to enjoy. Much love

Our donkey cart ride into Dogon Country

Group shot at the first stop. You can see our clothes are still clean.

This a beautiful shot of the buildings on the hill above many of the Dogon Villages. Where they perform many rituals and store most of their millet.

A closer look at the buildings on the hill in Dogon.

Group shot with our guide Mamadou, he was a great guy and a thank you goes out to Omar for helping us out! he's the man.

Drinking millet beer on New Year's eve in Banani, Dogon Country.

A photo of myself on the escarpment with a nice view of the Malian desert.